Hello and

welcome back to Module 1, lesson 1.

This is part two, as promised.

We are going to look
at the Cosing database.

Now, the Cosing database is actually
a cosmetic ingredient database in the EU.

Even if you are not in the EU,

I highly recommend you check this out
because you find so much information about

certain ingredients,
especially if you want to formulate

for a brand, your brand or someone else's
brand and you're thinking about exporting

to the EU, then this database
will become relevant.

How do we find a Cosing database?

First, you've got the link in your

course guide, in your PDF
document, so you can click on it.

But if you don't have that open, you
just type in Cosing into Google search.

You've got these first two, the European
Commission links we are interested in.

Let's see what happens
if I click on this one.

This is where we get to and we
click on the yellow link.

Now, this is the page we want.

This is an updated video.

The European Commission changed this

website not so long ago, so this
is the latest information for you.

Now here you can search
for your ingredient.

As you see, the Cosing database requests
the name, or CAS number, or EC number.

You can also look for an ingredient
using their INCI name.

Now, the INCI name is the International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

You don't need to know this by heart.

Normally, you see the INCI name displayed

when you purchase an ingredient
on the supplier's website.

If you don't know these details
for an ingredient that's not a problem.

What you need to do is I recommend that you use

suppliers that can give you
paperwork for your ingredients.

You need to get SDS sheet,
Certificate of Analysis and so on.

Look for this paperwork
or ask them for it.

If you don't get the paperwork,

they say no or they don't have it,
please look for a different supplier.

It's okay to get ingredients,
let's just say from Amazon or something

when you start,
but when you are serious about

formulating,
especially if you give it out to anyone,

I highly recommend you start collecting
paperwork for your ingredients

because all this information
would be on that paperwork.

So let's start by searching for something
simple, a common name, jojoba oil.

Oh, it's here.
Awesome.

So click search.

And as you see, we've got quite
a few items listed under jojoba oil.

Because I know the ingredients INCI name,

which is this,
I know this is the one I need.

Okay, so you've got the INCI listed,
you've got the CAS number listed.

If you click on this link,
you've got the ingredient data sheet.

Here you've got again the INCI name,

and description so you can make
sure this is what you need.

So it's the fixed oil.

Perfect.

You've got the CAS number and you
also have ingredient functions listed.

Now let's go back and do
a different search.

What happens if I look for cocoa
butter with the common name?

You've got, again, this one coming up.

Excellent.

Now what happens if I look for cocoa
butter using the CAS number?

Nothing.
So you see it can happen that

regardless of what you type in,
you don't get any search results.

So then you keep on trying.

Then you try the INCI name.

Let's see if I find it like this.

Here you go.

You've got here the seed butter,
that's cocoa butter.

This is why it's good to know information

about your ingredients, common name,
INCI name, CAS number, at least these three,

because then you can find
your way around the system.

Again, I click on the link and you get
the same information as with jojoba oil.

You can click on the PDF link.

It will give you a PDF

document with this information if
you want to keep it for yourself.

I want to show you a search
for a different ingredient because

we mentioned salicylic acid
in the previous video.

We mentioned that it cannot be used

in products for children under three years
of age, but it is also an exfoliant.

I want to show you what happens
when you look for salicylic acid.

Again, you've got a huge list,
but we need the first one.

Again, the same information,
INCI, CAS number, and so on.

However, what I want to draw your

attention to is this part,
cosmetic regulation provisions.

You see you've got two types listed here.

If it's under cosmetic regulations,

it's either restricted or prohibited
and we need to check this part, okay?

If this part of an ingredient is empty,

it means it has no restrictions,
so it's fine.

Now you go to the top of the page
and you click reference data, annexes.

There are six different annexes,

from prohibited ingredients
to UV filters and so on.

We need three and five for salicylic acid.

We click on number 3
and we need 98, right?

I think it was on page three.

Here we go.

Now this is what we need.

You see you've got salicylic acid,

CAS number, so you can
double check your search.

Here they list restrictions for certain

product types and the maximum
concentration.

A, rinse of hair product.

A, 3%.

In a shampoo you can only
use 3% salicylic acid.

B, other products except body lotion,
eye shadow and so on.

B, you can only use 2%.

Again, remember, if it's let's just
say a face cream, you can use 2%.

If it's a body lotion, no.

Other products except body
lotion and so on.

C, body lotion, eye shadow,
mascara, and so on, half a %.

You see the same ingredient depending
on the product you are making is very

restricted and the amount you
can use is quite different.

Let's check the other restriction.

We go back to Annexes and we need five.

Five is the list of preservatives
allowed in cosmetics.

Let's see, I think it was number three.

Here we go, salicylic acid and its salt.

As a preservative, salicylic acid can
be used as 0.5%. That's quite limited.

What happens is when you use salicylic

acid as a preservative, chances
are it will be part of a blend.

You've got a broad spectrum
preservative with various components.

This is when it becomes very important

that you check the supplier
recommendations or the manufacturer

recommendations when it
comes to usage limits.

I highly recommend that you check this
database, especially if you are in the EU,

check the Annexes,
the preservatives, and the prohibition.

Let me go back to the list again.

You see you've got prohibition, you've got

restriction, tolerance,
preservatives, and UV filters.

I hope this helped and I shall
see you in the next lesson.